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何以中国|广袖华裳:汉服里的民族性格与审美情趣

http://www.newdu.com 2018-07-24 艺术中国 “何以中国”第五 参加讨论

    【何以中国】
    在21世纪全球化潮流之中,什么才是中国?
    哪些是我们几乎遗忘的民族记忆?
    哪些是在世界文化潮流中,当代中国的精神特质?
    我们将基于什么来创造中华文明在世界中的当代贡献?
     
    “何以中国”系列短视频节目立足中国历史,寻找中国传统文化元素在当下的复兴,探寻通往中国文化深层精神内核的路径。
    【第五期·广袖华裳】
    
    “中国有礼仪之大,故称夏;有章服之美,谓之华。”
    “China’s rituals and etiquettes make Chinese people who they are, and their beautiful clothes make them glorious.”
    中国自古被称为“礼仪之邦”、“衣冠上国”。在广袖飘飘,衣裾渺渺的时代,“衣冠”成为了文明的代名词。服饰的形制、纹样、颜色,关乎制度、功用、审美,乃至华夏的历史、文化和价值观。
    China has been known as “a state of ceremonies” and “a well-dressed country” since ancient times. During those eras, traditional costume defined Chinese culture.The shape, structure, patterns and colors of clothes and accessories were not just a matter of regime, functions and aesthetics; moreover, it reflected China’s history, culture and values.
    汉服,又称“汉衣冠”并非单指汉朝的服饰,而涵盖整个传统汉民族的服装体系。汉朝依据四书五经形成了完备的冠服礼制,广袖代表“天圆”,显示出雍容大度和飘逸灵动的风采;交领代表“地方”,做人要有规矩,没有规矩不成方圆;衣带下垂至脚踝,代表正直;下襟与地面齐平,代表权衡。汉服充分体现了汉民族柔静安逸和泰然自若的民族性格,以及平淡自然、含蓄委婉的审美情趣。
    “Hanfu”, also known as “Han Costume”, is more than clothes and accessories from the Han Dynasty. It encompasses the entire dress code and clothing system of the traditional Han ethnic group. A complete set of hats, and clothing were formed during Han Dynasty based on the Four Books and Five Classics.Circular-cut long sleeves represent “heaven”, displaying a sense of graceful generosity and elegant movement. Cross collars represent “earth”, which conducted people to follow discipline. The belts on the gowns extend to the ankle symbolize integrity, and the hems drop down to the ground represent balance.Traditional Chinese costume conveys the characteristics of the Han ethnic group,which is quiet and poised. Their aesthetic taste is simple, natural, implicit and mild.
    从春秋深衣、汉朝曲裾,魏晋袄衫,到唐代襦裙半袖,宋制褙子宋裤,再到明代圆领袍衫等,汉服传承了几千年,在各个时代,其染织、刺绣等工艺都有着独特的魅力。
    The Spring and Autumn Period’s shenyi attire, the Han Dynasty’s quju, till Ming’s round-collar robes are all legacies of traditional Chinese costume, which have been passed down for thousands of years.The dyeing, weaving and the embroidery techniques of each dynasty possess its own unique charisma.
    女子梳高髻、袒胸披帛,或上着窄袖短衫下着曳地长裙、或穿红色团花襦裙,仿若回到了白居易笔下的“红楼富家女,金缕绣罗襦”的时代。
    Women used to tie their hair up and wear silk. Some are in a narrow-sleeved blouse with a long dress, and some wear red flower ruqun.Either way, their costume may bring one back to the era Bai Juyi once wrote “the wealthy women from Red Mansion wearing silk dress with golden embroidery.”
    21世纪初,有越来越多的年轻人以穿汉服为美,以传承华夏文化而骄傲和自豪。今天的设计师或提炼和归纳汉服基因,或遵循传统形制、面料及纹饰,设计出更适合现代人的服饰。更有艺术家,以衣袍为载体,创作出跨界之作。
    In the beginning of the 21st century, increasingly, the young generation has recognized the beauty of traditional Chinese costume; they are also proud to carry on the legacy of Chinese culture. Today, designers have worked to reproduce traditional Chinese costume that is better suited for modern people.Some summarized the core of Hanfu, while others continued to use the traditional ways. Some artists even created crossover artworks with Hanfu elements.
    一人一衣是为“依”,汉服承载着中国传统服饰的审美。民族复兴,衣冠先行,始于衣冠,达于博远。
    Hanfu reflects the aesthetic standards for traditional Chinese clothing and accessories.The renaissance of an ethnic group starts with costume. Traditional Chinese costume is just the starting point; one day, the profoundness of Chinese culture will be comprehensively revived.
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